Paris Fashion Week Spring Summer 2019
Paris is one of the most exciting Fashion Weeks to watch every fashion season.
Fashion aficionados already know the trends set will trickle down to what K-pop starlets, Instagram hypebeasts, fast fashion retailers like H&M and Uniqlo, and even Taobao streetwear will offer in the coming months.
So strap on your heels and pay attention because this Paris Fashion Week has been electric with new designers at established houses redefining what’s hot or not.
Logomania
Since Alessandro Michele reinvented Gucci with his version of a ‘renaissance’, the last nail was driven into the Minimalism coffin.
Since then, sneakers have gotten chunkier, more is more, and logos have gotten bigger; making it easier for people to show off their brand goods on Instagram.
Balenciaga
One of Gvasalia’s most stunning collections for Balenciaga yet. The Balenciaga logo is reiterated in various font types to create a textured print; a middle-finger to uptight brand guidelines less-established brands stick strictly to.
I love the gratuitous use of clip art graphics: random gambling paraphernalia falling, like a Windows 98 desktop screensaver.
The Eiffel tower is used as an unexpected sequined tessellation that reminds me of the patterns used in knock-off handbags. Hmmm, Balenciaga is determined to break all the rules.
Do your tags stick out after putting your polo shirt on? Balenciaga has now made it a thing.
However, these oddly shaped clutches are only in vogue if the word “BALENCIAGA” is printed on them.
Givenchy
My new fashion crush is Wright Keller’s Givenchy. The clothes depart from their past fondness of religious symbols and graphics; remember those rottweiler sweaters that bengs would wear?
Bengs will no longer find affinity with the new Givenchy. Sad.
Givenchy neue uses a refreshing palette of pastels and my favourite texture ever—bling. It’s used where it counts, like on spectacles over an all-black dress for maximum effect.
Even with Givenchy’s minimalist leanings, the logos come as big as they can get.
Slimane doing Slimane
Celine
All the eyes are on Hedi Slimane as he makes his debut for Celine. The first thing he did was to kill the p̶r̶e̶t̶e̶n̶t̶i̶o̶u̶s̶ French accent from his well-loved predecessor Phoebe Philo.
@diet_prada’s comparisons with his past tenure at Saint Laurent makes me miss his Saint Laurent days so, so much.
We see many all black looks and slim cut suits reminiscent of his Dior Homme anthology.
He does not put aside his love for ruffles, shimmer, and big shoulder things, however.
Give the man some time. Because I too laughed when he debuted Saint Laurent a couple of years back; I likened it to a very expensive Topshop. After which, I became an ardent fan.
Pairing oversized jackets and blazers with a short dress is quite the lewk.
I foresee fascinators being a big thing because everybody will want to get a piece of the S̶a̶i̶n̶t̶ ̶L̶a̶u̶r̶e̶n̶t̶ Slimane sparkle.
This tweet from @bof about sums it up.
Misses (or at least I think they are)
Balmain
“It’s Paris meets Egypt,” the designer of Balmain says. To me, the link is as mysterious as the Sphinx’s riddle.
The collection lacks consistency, using big fan shapes that seem to get in the way of practical existence. Some pieces are a texture extravaganza—the type of hot glue messes you might find in the art studio of a secondary school.
But surely, there will be one or two pieces the Kardashian sisters can pull off on a red carpet.
Elie Saab
Saab is known for his stunning creations on the red carpet for the the likes of J. Lo.
Perhaps the finesse translates clumsily to ready-to-wear.
I find the patterns distracting and unflattering. One look comes off as a giant walking poorly-stitched zipper. The messy floral patterns look like the scraps salvaged from Desigual’s bargain bin.
New world meets old world
Luxe French houses Chanel and Louis Vuitton closed Paris fashion week with a bang, juxtaposing futurism and 60s sentimentality.
Louis Vuitton
I always thought designer Nicholas Ghesquière struggled to fill the theatrical shoes of Marc Jacobs when he took over the house in 2013.
He has given us the fresh cut silhouettes he is known for at his previous tenure in Balenciaga, but it wasn’t in sync with a brand built on heritage leather goods.
I dare say this Spring/Summer 2019 collection is his brightest yet—the showcase took place in a space-looking neon-lit set constructed in the courtyards of the Louvre.
Ghesquière is no longer afraid to challenge heritage with the future (think Trump’s space force).
He marries graphics, unexpected textures of denim, nylon, quilt, and flower prints to create a universe that only makes sense in his taste; stylish and youthful.
This reminds me of one of his most iconic work from Balenciaga’s Fall/Winter 2012 collection. And maybe he just needs to be himself.
The 80s style graphics has been seen on the likes of Miley Cyrus. If you remember Justin Bieber fooling around in an Iron Maiden T-shirt, this is where the big painted graphics trend started.
Chanel
Karl doesn’t do anything new and that’s okay. Belts and straw hats with “CHANEL” strewn over is enough to scream “FASHION”.
Models strutted across a fake beach (with real waves), holding their thousand dollar shoes in hand.
The soft muted colours and prints in Chanel’s classic tweed patterns makes me yearn to lounge on a Provençal coast resort while sipping some dirty martinis.
I just know these layered pieces will be the favourite of tai tais who lounge on their yachts in Sentosa Cove come next year.
Paris Fashion Week SS19 For Singaporean Fashionistas
Till next time, au revoir!
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